After moving to my new place, I had access to a great studio space. It had cabinets, shelves, and a large counter top work surface. But after my first few projects digging tools out of cabinets, tool cases, and packed boxes I decided it was time to organize my work space more efficiently. Adding Pegboard to your work shop, garage, or garden shed is a cost effective way to organize all your material. It makes your tools easy to find, close at hand, and up out of the way of your work surface.
Special mention to my wonderful co worker Miss Carol Ann for some helpful tips and advice before I started this project.
Supplies |
Pegboard Sheets, 1×3’s or pegboard spacers, High Gloss paint and rollers |
Tools |
Drill, Stud Finder, laser level and torpedo level, tape measure, straight edge, and a pencil |
Hardware |
2-1/2” and 1-½” wood screws, flat or finish washers |
Accessories |
Pegboard hooks, holders, bins, and lock downs. . |
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The first step is to determine the dimensions and use of your project. Peg board comes in 2 flavors, you can use ⅛” hole board for small areas to hang hand tools, or larger ¼” hole board to cover an entire garage wall and hang heavier lawn equipment, folding chairs, etc. You will want to place your pegboard at a height and location that is easy to access but clear of your horizontal working space. Using your tape measure, laser level, straight edge and pencil mark the outline of where your board will be.
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You need about a ½” of space between the pegboard and the wall so the hooks have room to lock in place. There are two methods for spacing. I chose to use lengths of 1×3’s attached to the wall studs to act as a frame, however the lumber will block the peg holes behind it and limit your hanging options. The first step is to find the wall studs using a stud finder then mark the center line using your straight edge. I found my stud spacing to be 16” so after finding the first two studs you can make short work of the rest. Once located you can start hanging your framing using the longer 2 ½” wood screws. After inserting the first screw part way put your bubble level on top to ensure your frame stays straight while securing the rest of the screws. I alternated full length board with half length on each stud to maximize the peg holes available, you can also build a full box frame for the most stability but you will lose peg spaces. At this point I painted the wood frame to help hide it once the board is hung.
- The other method of hanging involves using plastic spacers to offset the pegboard. This frees up a considerable number of pegs available but will require at least two people to accomplish. While one person holds the pegboard in the position you want it, the other can mark the holes where the spacers will be. If not anchoring to the studs you can place hollow wall anchors to hold the screws. A trick to use is once you have your locations marked and wall anchors installed, use a small dab of superglue to attach the spacer to the wall and let them dry. This will save pinched fingers in the next step. Make sure your spacers are level at this point because you will not be able to adjust them later on.
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Now you are ready to attach your pegboard. If using the frame method, center the board on the frame, then using your shorter screws and a washer attach the board to your supports. Using a finish washer will give you a cleaner appearance, but flat washers will work just fine and be more economical. Using washers is critical to help distribute the stress of hanging weight and prevent the board tearing free of the frame. Start at the top corner then, using your level, attach at the other far corner. Now that the board is hanging in place attach the rest of your screws and washers so that the pegboard is firmly attached to your frame.
- If using spacers have the first person hold the board in place while you secure it using longer screws to assure plenty of purchase on the studs or wall anchors. After you attach the top two corners attaching the rest should be a snap.
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Because pegboard is porous, it is susceptible to water damage and chipping. I recommend several coats of high quality gloss paint to help protect the board from moisture, chipping, peeling, and aiding in easy cleanup. Plus it looks much nicer than plain pegboard. I selected a light grey color to help the tools stand out but not darken the room too much, any pastel colors that compliment the area would be a good choice.
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Now you can add all the different hooks, holders, and storage bins you want. Make sure to purchase hangers that will fit the size peg holes you have chosen; ¼” pegs won’t fit ⅛”” holes and ⅛” pegs may be too loose to be stable in ¼” board. A piece of advice, place your commonly used tools such as a hammer, screwdrivers, and pliers down lower on the pegboard in easy reach, and heavier less frequently used items up higher out of the way. I have also found peg locks to be a great addition to hold your hangers in place and not pull hooks off the wall when you reach for your tools or try to hang them back up only to have them fall right off. I wish I had these 15 years ago when I was trying to put a hammer back on its peg it came off, hit the drain spigot of the hot water heater, and flooded my parents laundry room. Seriously, these are the best cheap pieces of plastic since the water bottle.
Congratulations, your work space is clean, organized, and all of your equipment is at hand to tackle your next home improvement project.
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