This is one of those reviews that will appeal to a very limited audience — those who practice what Tom Wolfe once referred to as “the Secret Vice.” And I have to confess: I consider myself a (junior) member of that club. I like getting dressed up. I like suits, braces, cufflinks, ties, patterned socks, captoed shoes, and dinner jackets. And I like learning about their history.
Mind you, I don’t get especially dressed up every day: I usually wear jeans and a buttondown shirt when blogging, as opposed to PJM’s original namesake garb. But when I go out for dinner, particularly on the weekend or during holidays, I like to look good.
There, I said it. Still with me?
If you’re not, I can understand. Ever since the 1970s, after the era depicted in Mad Men concluded, being well dressed has often been seen as a slightly strange affectation for a man. And yet, to get through life (including job interviews, office work, family gatherings, weddings, upscale restaurants, and other events), there are certain sartorial skills that a man must have.
Fortunately, they’re easily acquired.
At the height of the Silicon Valley boom in the late 1990s, several friends of mine, all in their 40s or 50s, who hadn’t gone on job interviews in ages, each asked me what to wear to them. And in each case, I simply handed them my copy of Alan Flusser’s 1985 book, Clothes and the Man and said, “read this.”
The Long Polyester Hibernation
Confession number two: I wasn’t always much interested in clothes. I became aware of Clothes and the Man in the mid-1980s, when I was in college, having graduated from a 13-year K through 12 hitch at St. Mary’s Hall (now known as Doane Academy) in New Jersey, a private college prep school where I wore a blue blazer, blue buttondown shirt, striped tie and gray trousers every weekday.
Not surprisingly, I left St. Mary’s more than a little confused about what to wear next, especially since simultaneously, menswear was coming out of its long polyester hibernation and into a brief moment of style (Wall Street “power suits,” Miami Vice pastels, suits worn by rock stars in MTV videos, etc.). Of course, with the possible exception of those who were very careful buying their power suits, most ’80s fashion dated very badly, leaving lots of men — including myself — with more than a few momentarily stylish skeletons in their closets. Clothes and the Man helped me avoid many further mistakes: the suits and sports jackets I bought prior to buying Flusser’s book around 1987 have long since been given to Goodwill. (Though I still have the psychedelic Bill Cosby sweater I bought from Boyds in Philadelphia in 1986, just to remind myself of the era.) Some of the clothes I’ve bought post-Flusser, I still wear from time to time, even after a quarter century of ownership.
Appropriate Styles That Will Last
That’s the whole point of Flusser’s most recent book, Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, which was first published in 2002: finding appropriate styles that flatter a man, and will last. Flusser’s book is copiously illustrated, with a combination of vintage photographs of the usual suspects (Cary Grant, Fred Astaire, the Duke of Windsor, Adolphe Menjou, Lucius Beebe, etc.), newly photographed men in a plethora of styles, and classic illustrations from the golden era of such publications such as Apparel Arts, the beautiful 1930s-through the 1950s forerunner of both GQ and Esquire, which I talked to Michael Anton about, back in October.
I don’t want to give the impression that Flusser’s book is merely a photo and illustration-heavy coffee table book without substance. Like his previous books (and frankly, if you own Clothes and the Man, you might want to thumb through Dressing the Man before buying it, unless you get obsessive over this stuff like I do), Flusser has lots of practical advice on his subject.






Thank you for such a remarkable (and revealing
article. I suppose it says something that a woman is commenting. However, some clothing details are very important.
For instance, I could NEVER vote for Ron Paul. I literally cringe every single time I see him in his ill-fitting suits. He always looks like he’s swimming in them; because they fit so poorly, he looks like he shops for suits at Kmart. (Note: I have nothing against Kmart, Walmart, Target, etc., nor shopping there for clothing. BUT I expect better from someone running for pres.!) Once you see that there’s at least an inch between his neck and the suit collar all the way ’round, you can’t unsee it. It’s just plain sloppy. Which makes me worry — does he do this on purpose to show people he’s “just folks”, or does he really not know, nor care? If the latter … well, that’s not good. It brings up something along the satorial lines of an old quote about “Beware the man who ignores his stomach, for he will certainly pay attention to nothing else.” Now some people will say, “I eat to live, not live to eat”, but transferring all this to clothing instead of food, I think you get my drift.
Another example: Charles Payne, who is often a guest of Neil Cavuto on Fox Business. He is the absolute epitome of male elegance. You can tell at first glance ALL his wardrobe is custom made; everything FITS, and well. Some Sat. morning, tune into reg. Fox News prog. “Cashin’ In” or “Bulls & Bears”. Once you see how his clothes fit and how at ease he is in them, look at the rest of the guests. I can almost guarantee that 3 of 4 men will have this HUGE wrinkle at the back of the neck on their coat — or it gapes away from the neck so badly they look like … Ron Paul.
Whether one is the scrawniest ol’ rooster in the barnyard, or built like a tank, having clothing that actually fits and enhances your look will definitely make a positive impression. So many things follow from that!
While i used to know that dressing in suits was masculine and purposeful, I have since spent 20 years in a career where I learned the truth. In busiiness and more so in, government, men wear suits to please other men. Plain and simple. I had a boss who couldn’t have cared less about how your duties were going, or the successes and struggles within them that you were experiencing, but if you were seen w/o a tie around your neck, he was on you like white on rice.
Sadly, i now wear them with disdain. even when doing so of my own accord because its appropriate for the situation.