the ending in here veres off to joseph conrad & that indian guy from the carribean.

I’m less than a week a way from leaving the north shore of oahu. after a month I’ve only just started to get a proper routine of work swim work. my favorite coffee shop in haleiwa has a constant circus of classic rock. so much so that I’m starting to hear the old songs again even when I’m not at the coffee shop. I don’t like that. the surfers have an aesthetic about surfing. they call the ocean a great canvas upon which they’re free to paint with their surf boards. Its low tide out this morning. One of the local pasters had a men’s group meeting last friday night which I attended. they were looking for ideas for outreach. I mentioned that my pastor back in washington dc did 30 second spots on the radio which he entitled “not a sermon. just a thought” the spots were aimed at guys 15 to 25 who listened to the local rock stations. the pastor has a good ear for the proverbs of hell these guys adhere to. when I was that age they would have been things like “whatever doesn’t kill you will make you stronger.” “too much of everything is just enough.” I don’t know what the surfer dudes tell each other at drunk parties. or what they say to impress the local chicks. at the local coffee shop a repeated theme among the women is that they are totally ripe and no one is marrying them.

(of course they’re psych & soc majors so they don’t know that that they’ve been educated to be idiots.)

a good line on the radio can save the local dudes a decade or more of wandering around.

certainly nobody preaches to themselves. everybody just lays down and lets their bodies play back to them in dreams what they heard during the day. then its up onto the boards to ride the wild waves. well I exaggerate. the sea is tame this time of year. no storms in aleutians. gotta wait till winter for that.