Latte and Lashes: Starbucks Saudi Style
The lavish shopping malls of Saudi Arabia feature Starbucks as a patent on modernity.
It was there in Riyadh a few days ago, while 37-year-old Yara sipped her latte, that the bearded religious enforcers of the Commission for the Promotion of Virtue and Prevention of Vice, the feared Muttawa, pounced upon her. They charged the mother of three with committing an immoral crime in a public place, dragged her out to one of their GMC trucks positioned around malls and restaurants, and hauled her to jail.
A co-owner of a finance company with multiple branches, the wealthy entrepreneurial Saudi businesswoman’s crime was conversing with one of her male employees about a new branch due to open soon. They were not married nor were they blood relatives. In Saudi law this is a “khulwa,” a pseudo-sexual disposition to commit sin.
In short order, as widely reported on February 5 and during subsequent days by Arab News, this member of a Jeddah merchant family along with her Syrian male subordinate were indicted on charges of illegal intimacy, strip searched, and locked up. Held incommunicado, her cell phone was confiscated before her husband eventually rescued her.
Saudi Starbucks plays to different tunes — as do McDonalds, KFCs, Cartier, and Bulgari shops — in the Kingdom. Only men are allowed to sip their coffees in public while married couples and siblings of mixed sexes retreat to a “family section” hidden behind walls, armed with documents showing they are blood relatives or spouses.
During prayer times, among other duties, the Muttawa jail shop owners who fail to shut their stores, suspend passport control at busy airports, and order assembly lines to come to a halt in factories.
On a reporting trip a few years ago I was caught during a noon prayer call at a chicken factory outside Riyadh. Suspended in midair was a row of birds hanging head down from a conveyor belt. The scene was Orwellian as Catholic Filipino workers listened to Koranic verses on loudspeakers waiting for the belt to move again so they could chop off the birds’ heads. Beyond our factory, across a sprawling city of six million, shopkeepers pulled shutters down; traffic stood immobilized at busy intersections and in the airports the lines became unbearably long.
We often speak of “moderate” Muslim regimes, juxtaposed with rabid Islamists such as Hamas, Iran’s mullahs, and Hezbollah’s madmen. In this lexicon Saudi Arabia qualifies as supremely moderate, with one White House after another, from Nixon to Bush, protecting it even after Osama bin Laden visited the U.S. on 9/11 with his Saudi hijackers. It might have a lot to do with Saudi oil and just as importantly millions of dollars of Saudi donations to presidential libraries (ten million US dollars to Bill Clinton alone, several more to Bush senior).
The idea is that Osama is a radical, but the royals, their judges, and their Muttawa are moderates.
Still, at Starbucks the other day the bearded ones took Yara to Malaz prison, where scores daily kneel to receive however many lashes a Sheikh decrees.
The Saudi lobbying machine tags the reigning monarch King Abdullah as a reformer extraordinaire. Indeed, a few weeks ago he was lavishly praised for ordering a brand new “social police” with the intention of softening the implementation of Koranic laws. Never mind that the laws themselves are left intact, alongside the 20,000 existing religious judges implementing them.
This, it is often explained by U.S. politicians, is progress. Such logic is in blatant disregard of the majority in a young Saudi population who see themselves as victims of a ruling family allied with an even more repressive theological establishment to suffocate women’s rights, human rights — and simple decency.
Saudi reformists say the entire edifice of 7th-century draconian sharia laws, along with the religious enablers in the government and the mosques, must go. The same King Abdullah announced some time ago another elusive promise to alter the entire judicial system, putting civilian judges in place of Muslim theologians, none of whom have ever seen a law degree.
True friends of Saudi Arabia know that reform is massive and has yet to begin. It includes doing away with madrassas, the rote teachings of jihad, subversive Islamist charities spreading Islamofascism, and multi-million-dollar donations to elite Western universities to spread a Saudi version of scholarship.
In the computer data business there is a famous saying: “garbage in equals garbage out.”
Real reforms start with school curricula, mosque sermons, the royal family itself, and the heart of the business establishment — as well as the Starbucks lounge.
Youssef M. Ibrahim, a former Middle East correspondent for the New York Times and Energy Editor of the Wall Street Journal is a freelance writer and Mideast political risk consultant based in New York.






Corporations do not have ethics. They have policies which they believe will maximize profit and public relations departments to spin them. They will go into places like Saudi Arabia and China and have no problem with complying with the local totalitarianism and tyranny if there’s a buck to be made. Simultaneously, they are come up with stateside campaigns here stateside to promote how wonderful abs concerned they are with their ‘Fair Trade’ coffee, and concern for social justice, and little fund raiser ads for AIDS relief Bicycle tours.
How many are sitting in Chinese jails right now learning how to think properly compliments of Google, Yahoo, and Microsoft?
But to be fair, its not only corporations. Look at the Feminists who have clearly demonstrated that their interests go no further than their own personal aggrandizement. Or the environmentalists that work overtime to keep suffering third world populations in squalor, disease, and hunger. Government are worse yet – the UN being this era’s ultimate champion of hypocrisy. Or is it the news media? I’m not sure.
Seems like just about everybody is dealing with the devil. But that’s the human condition. There is nothing new in the world.
Will people do the right thing? Probably not.
If only Secy of State Rice said upon her arrival in Saudi Arabia, “I’ll drive.” It would have spoken volumes for the cause of women under the yolk of the burqa.
Yes, all these things are true and more, I learned over 20 years ago on a visit to the Kingdom. At the time, there was no constitution, the king and religious authorities were the law (there is a constitution today, but the king has the authority to pretty much do as he pleases). Things might have changed, but the veil of darkness is still there, I’m sure.
“Welcome to Dharan, Saudi Arabia. Please set your watches back 1500 years” was the joke.
Try reading a magazine article and the page with the final paragraphs were cut out, not by some previous reader, but by the censors who removed pages with alcohol advertising, scantily clad women selling beach vacations or even pictures of six petalled flowers (because the Israeli star of David has six points).
Sure, there is lots of money in this and other despotic countries — after all we gave it to them for their oil (low cost manufacturing in the case of China) and that’s why all these companies are there. Corporations will only have a moral compass to the extent their management, board, shareholders and customers have one.
United States spend billions (dollars) and cost thousands of american soldiers lives to protect Saudi’s oil. Our Reward is $90+ oil.
Saudi’s comment; “The market set the prices.” No, supply and demand set the prices. OPEC sets the suppy.
To use the term ‘Moderate’ and the word Sharia in the same context is in itself an oxymoron.
Ugh. I’ve almost gotten to the point where I come to realize the world is just crazy.
Starbucks and Burqas, it is truly mindboggling! Not far from how mind-boggling it would be for 21st century human to be standing in a field of woolly mammoths. Talk about your clash of civilizations.
“Corporations do not have ethics. They have policies which they believe will maximize profit and public relations departments to spin them.”
Something to think about when considering single-payer health care, among much else.
Leon Uris, in his novel, “Exodus” unerringly puts his finger on what ails the Muslim world.
After the American nurse, Kitty Fremont, arrives in Palestine (at the time), once a week she and the head of the Youth Village would go to the Arab village next to it. The mukhtar of the village wanted to talk to her about what was troubling him, but he concluded that he couldn’t say what was troubling him to a mere woman.
The price was the villagers being displaced, he and others dead, and the village destroyed.
As long as truth is dependent upon various variables, as looks to be the predominant view in the Muslim world (especially Arabia) – then women will suffer. For the rest of us, life will be less than what it ought to be.
I put on you tube “love letters in the sand”. It is about women under Islamic law.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCs3wdMgVIk&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFFT-4IxE3I
Sorry the first link was wrong.