You don’t, however, have to be a Portland-dwelling “local and organic“ nut to believe it would be no bad thing if more of us consumed food from closer to home, thus supporting local producers and small businesses and encouraging farmers who promote higher standards of welfare for the animals we eat. We’d also get fresher and tastier food into the bargain. Polls in Britain have indicated that a sizeable minority of shoppers are indeed changing their buying habits, and will be reacquainting themselves with their local butcher (if he’s still in business) rather than buying processed meat products from the big supermarkets.

Only time will tell if it’s a real change in attitudes rather than a knee-jerk response, but it’s a reminder of how the free market can work at its best: consumers punish companies that don’t provide a decent product by taking their business elsewhere.